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Bahia Ballena Costa Rica Motorcycle Diary
A few days ago I went riding up into the mountains in search of a small village called San Luis. This was the third time I had attempted to find it. (The first time Milyn and I had tried to get there via Platanillo near Dominical, but that turned out to be the worst choice and we ended up checking out Reptilandia instead; the second time, we only made it partway.)
Finally, after crossing a formidable river-crossing, the road climbed straight up the mountain. Near the top, there was a ten or twelve year old boy, and I stopped to chat with him.
"Regale me una naranja?" I asked him. He took two out of the tree and gave me one. Delicious. We chatted for a few minuntes. He told me I was almost in San Luis. His name was Jose, and he was in his sixth and final year at the elementary school before embarking on the work-life tending cattle.
Then I continued, rode around a bit near the clouds, tried to buy beans and chayote at the local pulperia (failed, not even any beans), and headed back home.
"Una pregunta," said Jose as I waved to him on my way down. I stopped.
"Que cosa es plata?" he asked innocently.
What a bizarre question, I thought. How innocent. I wasn't sure what he was asking or why, so I launched into a monologue about the two meanings of the word - first describing precious metals and silver's relative value among the precious metals, then describing the meaning being a synonym for cash money.
Jose proceeded to show me a small bracelet he had removed.
"Comprelo para que aprienda que cosa es plata?" he asked. It was such a bizarre question, but why not. Did you make it? Yes. How much do you want? I don't know. I'll check what I have. 600 colones, how about that. OK, sounds fine. He seemed very happy. It seemed almost as though someone had told him, "Vende algo para aprender que cosa es plata." Whatever it might have been, mission accomplished.
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The next day - yesterday - Milyn and I were out riding on a leisurely Sunday ride to get some coconuts and enjoy the sun and breeze. We got pulled over, blue car but the cop was wearing white. Trafico. He listed between five and ten infringements, including the terrible offense of carrying a copy of the passport (no original), lacking the original purchase receipt for the motorcycle, etc, etc. I had to sign a digital computer gizmo, and he printed out the "multa" - 3 official infractions, 2000 colones each - 6000 colones. We'll pay it in the bank today.
And by the way, I have no intention of driving around with my original passport, original receipt, original etc etc. Sometimes a person does get robbed here, and if it happens I'd rather not sit in lines for three days. Much better to pay ten bucks quite happily to the gov't every few months for the use of the roads.
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Last night we had katuk with coconut milk, and today Milyn made me a fruit shake with coconut water.
Yum.
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